Clean streets or voting sheets?
The Milles Collines is a beautiful hotel in Kigali, perched atop one of the hills that gives Rwanda its nickname: the land of one thousand hills. The back terrace looks out onto a tropical garden dotted with bougainvillea. Today, it is an oasis of calm in a peaceful city, but it was made famous as an oasis from unimaginable violence when 1000 people sheltered there during the country’s 1994 genocide. During my recent sabbatical, in the tranquil setting among chirping